Plowman’s Folly
This month's column will show you how to take a perfectly good toy plow and turn it into a worn-out, rusted, weather beaten, flaking masterpiece!
Abandoned moldboard plows are a timeless symbol of man’s taming of the earth. Today, many sit idle at the edges of the fields they once ruled. They could rest there for 100's of years and never disappear. Their paint, long faded away, is patiently replaced by the somber, comforting hues of rust and age. Even as they surrender and slowly sink into the soil, they exude a proud confidence and raw power.
For this project I used a SpecCast, 1/16th scale, Oliver, 3 bottom, " Plow Master," on rubber. There are many fine toy plows on the market that will also work for this project. At the end of the column, I have included a photo of a McCormick-Deering, Little Genius 2 bottom plow, on steel. I weathered this plow using many of the same technics described in this column.
Original Plow - SpecCast, 1/16th scale, Oliver, 3 bottom, " Plow Master," on rubber
The first step is to disassemble the plow and strip off the factory paint.
First remove the “rubber” tires. Submerse the plow in a bowl of hot tap water for 5 minutes. Once the rubber has sufficiently warmed, you can easily remove the tires from the rims. With the tires out of the way, you can now back out the screws that attach the plow bottoms to the frame. Lastly, cut the chain that holds the hitch pin to the frame.
The model is now ready for stripping. I used Klean Strip Premium Stripper. I placed the frame in a plastic container and poured in half an inch of stripper. Using a 1-inch paint brush, I thoroughly covered every surface of the plow frame and disassembled parts. After 15 minutes the paint will bubble indicating it is ready to be scrubbed off. Perform this step in a well-ventilated area with eye protection and latex gloves. I used a stiff plastic bristle brush to scrub off the paint. Next wash the plow in hot soapy water and let dry. Small areas of stubborn paint can be scraped off with files or a hobby knife.
Use a fine file and carefully remove any visible parting lines left over from the molding process. I chose to add two additional details. This plow is commonly referred to as a “Rooster Comb.” It’s an accurate description of the plow raising casting on the right side of the frame. The rooster comb was lowered onto the wheel hub, which had a series of rollers. As the plow travelled forward, the rollers would engage the pawls on the rooster comb raising it out of the ground. Since this is a defining feature, I added the rollers to the hub. I cut six, 1/16th diameter styrene rods and super glued them evenly around the hub. Although not exact, it adds interest and detail. I then drilled out the factory rivets used to pin the linkages together. I replaced them with small brads to better represent the rounded ends of the pins used in the prototype.
Next, I purposely ruined the tires. Many old plows have mismatched tires, often with a more aggressive tire on the lifting side. To model this detail, I used 1:25th scale model truck tires from the amt company (#AMTPPO28/24). They fit perfectly. To get a well-worn look, I used emery sanding boards and files to remove most of the tread. I also sanded the sidewalls, which turned them a convincing, sun faded gray color. For the left side, I used the tire that came with the plow. I cut away the bottom, spread it out and warmed it with a heat gun until is started to soften. I then mash it down flat and let it cool. The result is a perfectly flat tire. Lasty, I gave the tailwheel tire the same aging treatment.
I wanted the bottoms and the rolling colters to show the effects of years of hard use. The critical areas of wear are the shares, the shins, and the landsides. I marked out the areas of material I wanted to remove with a marker. These bottoms don’t have replaceable shins, so instead, I ground out a hollow area where the turning soil would have scoured the moldboard. Next, I ground the sharp points down and finally thinned and tapered the landsides. The factory colters have an unconvincingly blunt, square edge. I wanted them to look like they were sharpened by the earth. I inserted a brass rod though the axel hole to serve as a mandril, then ran the edge gently against my belt sander to make a sharp, authentic edge. You can do the same with a file and sandpaper. The modeled wear and tear adds greatly to the overall look of this fencerow masterpiece.
I sprayed the stripped, dry plow frame, bottoms, colters and any other diecast parts, completely with Rust-Oleum, Painter’s Touch 2X, Ultra Cover primer in flat red. I apply several light coats to make sure I get 100% coverage. Use a respirator in a well-ventilated area and let dry overnight.
To achieve the look of rust and wear, I start with rust and corrosion, then work my way backwards. The green paint will be applied over the first layer of rust. This method is called, “Chipping.” This approach allows the buildup of complex layers of color and texture. Prime several pieces of styrene the size of a stick of chewing gum. Use these practice strips to hone your new skills before working on the plow. As I run through the steps, try them out on your test plastic first. This will give you confidence and help adjust your recipe for the level of distress you desire.
Mix your paints ahead of time. Adjust for color and set aside in airtight containers. I custom mixed the colored paints with white to achieve a faded look. I use many different brands of model paints, but my “go to” brand is Mission Models (missionmodelsus.com). They have fine pigments, mix easily, and apply without issues. They Clean up with water and they are made in the USA. Here is the formula I used, but you can easily alter to suit your own tastes.
Faded Oliver green for plow frame: Thoroughly mix together:
30 drops of Mission Models: Farm Tractor Green, #MMP-124
3 drops of Mission Models: White, #MMP-001
1 drop of Mission Models: Dark Rust, #MMW-001
1 drop of Mission Models: Black, #MMP-047
Faded Oliver red for wheels: Thoroughly mix together:
10 drops of Mission Models: Red, #MMP-003
1 drops of Mission Models: White, #MMP-001
1 drop of Mission Models: Dark Rust, #MMW-001
1 drop of Mission Models: Black, #MMP-047
The rust layer:
I used Mission Models: Dark Rust, #MMW-001 and Light Rust, #MMW-003. Over the primer, apply a uniform coat of Dark Rust. When it is almost dry, apply a light, semi-transparent, streaking coat of Light Rust. The result will be a convincing patina of the two colors. Seal with a light spray of Testors Dullcote.
Next, completely spray the frame and wheels with two coats of hair spray, yes…hairspray! I use L’Oréal, extra strong hold. Shake well before use and let dry for at least 10 minutes. Over the top of the hairspray, apply the first coat of faded Oliver Green. Do this in fast, light strokes with a soft brush. Do not go over any one area more than twice or the paint will lift. Let dry for at least an hour.
Use a soft model brush to apply a thin coat of water on a small area of the frame. Let this set for a few minutes. The water will begin to soften the hairspray underneath the paint. Gently rub the wet area with a cotton swab and the green paint will start to flake away, revealing the rust paint underneath. The trick is to work slow and easy. Work a small section at a time. Keep in mind where the paint would wear most and start there. I like to feather out the edges of larger rust spots. I crumple up a piece of paper towel and dab at the water/green paint until I get a smooth edge. I leave some rough, to represent scratches that went through the paint and then rusted. I use toothpicks and stiff brushes to get differing effects. You can leave as much or as little green paint as you see fit, depending how heavily you want to weather your plow. Repeat the same process for the red wheels and let dry.
It's now time to add several layers of rust powers over the top of the rusted areas revealed below the green paint in the previous step. Pour the various dry powders onto a shallow dish where they can be mixed with a dry brush. Don’t be afraid to try different powder combinations to get the desired look. Work the powders into the areas between the green paint. After you are satisfied, add a fixative spray of Dullcot, let dry and then continue adding mixes of powders until satisfied. I use one brush for dabbing on wet rust paint, then add rust power mix right into the wet paint. This allows the buildup thicker areas of rust where warranted. Pay particular attention to areas around hubs, lifts, and linkage. Fight the temptation to make it all one color of rust. Variability is what will make your model outstanding.
HINT: Study real rust patterns if you can. Add depth by keeping the center of deeply corroded areas darker than the edges.
The rust powders I used in this column are from Bragdon Enterprises (Bragdonet.com).
Weather System Kit #FF-65 contains light, medium and dark rust, plus a soot. This is a terrific set of four, self-adhering weather powders. They are made in the USA.
Weather the bottoms and colters by applying a thin coat of dark rust paint, then shake the mixed colored rust powers directly into the paint by flicking with a dry brush. After each layer of rust, seal with Dullcote. I often use several layers of powder and sealer. Don’t worry about any green paint here, that would have worn off decades ago. They were shiny raw steel the last time the plow was used, and now are heavily pitted and rusted. Once complete, screw the bottoms and moldboard braces back into position on the frame. File down and fill in what can still be seen of the bottom mounting screws with thick paint. We don’t want any rural pundit to look at your perfectly weathered plow and say, “Hey now, that’s a giant screw ya got there holding your bottoms to the frame!” After you have finished with the bottoms, install the colters and give them the same treatment. Lastly, install the tires you successfully ruined earlier.
The last step is grease and grime. Even though the plow has been setting in a fencerow since the Herbert Hoover administration, the grease, and the discoloration of the rust from the grease is still visible. To model this, use a very fine bush with flat black paint like Mission Models #MMP-047 mixed with Tire Black, #MMP-040. Add dripping, running details around bearings and lubrication points. I add layers of dry powder over the wet grease to get the look of years of grime. Lastly use an even smaller brush to add tiny dabs of Mars Black acrylic paint out of a tube to add a few glossier highlights of grime.
Congratulations, you have taken a perfectly good, new toy plow and created an impressive piece of art, one that is unique from all others. The weathered plow will add a convincing dimension of age and history to your next display!
